Today, Champagne is synonymous with luxury and celebration, but 110 years ago, the region faced a far more harrowing reality: war. Beneath the sparkling image lies a history forged in conflict, heroism, and resilience. Champagne’s culture was shaped amid wars and violence, with many producers responding with courage and compassion, sheltering citizens and soldiers in their legendary crayères—vast underground caves carved from chalk, some 18 meters deep. These experiences shaped Champagne’s approach to philanthropy, hospitality, and even the methods used to produce its iconic wines.
A Region Shaped by War
Champagne’s strategic location on the northern border of France made it a crossroads for German soldiers marching towards Paris, and during both World Wars, the region became a battlefield. In World War I, German forces occupied Reims and Epernay, subjecting the area to relentless trench warfare and bombing. Reims endured 1,051 days of shelling, which decimated the city, including historic landmarks like Reims Cathedral and the Saint-Rémi Basilica. Those who remained—mainly women, children, and the elderly—tended the vineyards under harrowing conditions, sometimes working at night in gas masks while bombs fell. Remarkably, the 1914 vintage is still considered one of the finest of the 20th century, a testament to the perseverance of the people.
During World War II, Champagne was again occupied, with German forces looting up to 18 million bottles annually. The notorious “Champagne Führer,” Otto Kleibisch, oversaw the exploitation of the region’s production for the Nazi elite. Amidst this, Champagne houses became quiet centers of resistance, smuggling weapons and aiding those fleeing Nazi persecution.
Going Underground: The Crayères
The ancient chalk caves of Champagne, known as crayères, were pivotal in the region’s wartime history. Dug as early as the 5th century by Roman laborers, these caves originally served as natural coolers for food storage. By the 18th century, Champagne houses like Ruinart had transformed them into ideal environments for aging sparkling wine. During the World Wars, these underground labyrinths became sanctuaries, shielding thousands from bombardment and housing makeshift communities complete with schools and even chapels.
At Taittinger, over 250 people sought refuge in the crayères during World War I, using bottle racks as dividers and creating a sense of normalcy amidst chaos. At Lanson, refugees brought what little they had, and soldiers, priests, and even children found safety in the caverns. Graffiti left on the walls serves as a testament to the resilience and humor of those who endured.
Quiet Acts of Defiance
While direct resistance was dangerous, Champagne producers found ways to subtly defy their occupiers. Anne Marie Yolande Kunkelmann of Piper-Heidsieck joined the French Resistance, using her cellars to hide weapons and aid Jewish refugees. When the Nazis discovered her activities, she narrowly escaped arrest and fled to Spain until the war’s end. Upon her return, she rebuilt Piper-Heidsieck and helped restore Champagne’s prominence, lifting the entire region.
Taittinger also resisted, refusing to compromise the quality of their Champagne despite Nazi demands for greater production. For this defiance, François Taittinger was imprisoned. Such acts of quiet rebellion underscored the producers’ determination to protect their heritage.
A Legacy of Resilience
The wars left a lasting impact on the people and culture of Champagne. The crayères still bear the scars of history, with graffiti and remnants that tell stories of survival. After World War II, tourists flocked to Champagne, drawn by the region’s wartime history and the promise of its sparkling wines. Investments through the Marshall Plan modernized production, introducing stainless steel tanks and advanced techniques that improved quality, setting Champagne on its path to becoming the global powerhouse it is today.
Beyond France: The Impact on Other Sparkling Wines
Champagne’s wartime experiences also influenced other regions, such as Trentodoc in Italy. After World War II, Giulio Ferrari discovered that wines aged longer on the lees during wartime tasted remarkably better, revolutionizing the region’s approach to sparkling wine. Today, Trentodoc sparkling wines are aged for significantly longer periods, enhancing their complexity and quality.
When General Patton’s forces liberated Epernay and Reims in 1944, Champagne flowed freely in celebration—a symbol of the region’s indomitable spirit. In many ways, that celebration continues today, honoring a history of resilience that transformed Champagne from a battleground to a symbol of joy.
