Complexity in wine is often misunderstood. It involves far more than just adding layers of flavors and hoping for the best. True complexity emerges from a careful balance of many elements, not simply overwhelming the palate with intensity. Complexity is often associated with quality, but this isn’t always the case. While great wines are typically complex, not all complex wines are great. Overuse of oak or high alcohol levels, for example, can mask a wine’s true character, leading to a product that tries too hard to impress without delivering genuine complexity. If a winemaker insists their wine is “really complex,” it might be a red flag indicating that the wine is overworked rather than refined.
Mark Savage MW highlights that balance is key. An overemphasis on complexity can lead to excessive extraction, where winemakers pull too much from the grape, forgetting that winemaking is about selecting the best qualities, not just extracting everything. More isn’t always better; it’s about harmony, not noise.
Vineyard vs. Cellar Complexity
There are two main sources of complexity: vineyard-derived and cellar-derived. For example, Champagne‘s complexity largely comes from the aging process, but it also stems from blending different vineyard components. However, too much focus on cellar techniques can overshadow the natural complexity derived from the vineyard.
Champagne exemplifies complexity through its blend of different vineyards and grape varieties. For instance, Krug blends over 150 different components to create a detailed and complex wine. This complexity is hard to achieve with fewer components, as seen in Blanc de Blancs Champagnes, which, while charming, are often less complex than those that include both black and white grapes.
Terroir’s Role
The complexity in wines like those from Côte d’Or comes from the terroir. Great terroirs naturally produce more complex flavors, and the most complex wines often come from the best terroirs. This complexity is further enhanced by precise vineyard management and winemaking decisions tailored to each unique plot. Some grape varieties are inherently more complex, such as Pinot Noir compared to Gamay. Additionally, yeast plays a significant role in complexity. Wild yeasts, which vary from year to year and vineyard to vineyard, can add subtle, nuanced complexity that more controlled, lab-grown yeasts cannot.
In conclusion, true complexity in wine is about balance and detail. It’s not just about stacking flavors, but about creating a harmonious and nuanced experience that reflects the quality of the vineyard and the skill of the winemaker.
